Tainan, the first settlement build in Taiwan and capital
of the island for centuries still holds honorable title as the "cultural
capital".
People
in Tainan area worked on their lands and were devoted to farming and fishing
thus they established a profound connection with this land and the ocean. In
order to provide everything necessary for stable life, like good weather,
enough rain, protection against typhoons and pirates, a culture full of customs,
worshiping gods, pilgrimages, religious and magical rituals developed over time
and it is still deeply rooted in this area. The pace of modernization perhaps
did not go too fast in Tainan, or perhaps the effect of mass rural life did not
fully destroy the relationship between man and land, in any case Tainan is
perhaps the last oasis of true, untouched by progress, traditional south
Chinese traditional culture and way of life.
Perhaps
the best representation diverse cultural life in Tainan area are thriving
temple. From the beginning to the end of the year, from spring to fall, there
are different types of temple festivals. There wasn’t a day in a year without drums
bang, firecrackers burst out, procession with statues of gods. Tainan can be
called the temple city because temples are literary everywhere, Almost every
street has at least one temple and that is not exaggeration. Very temple holds
a procession with music, dancing, kung fu performance once a year celebrating a
birthday of a god to which it is
dedicated. Of course there are many
other festivals, performances and public rituals, as much as temple
processions.
Tainan
also has rich martial arts culture. Being a frontier area for centuries, Taiwan
was “Wild West” of Chinese empire, in many ways much more dangerous and in need
for fighting skills than any other place in Asia at the time. Basically,
outside the walls of Tainan fortress there was no laws besides the law of the
strongest. In order to survive villages organized and train their own militias
to repel the pirates, head hunters and other bandits. Over time Ching dynasty
established better control of the island but people still continued to practice
martial arts, after centuries of constant struggle martial arts became not only
part of everyday life but also a part of religious rituals, celebrations and
culture in general.
One
unique religious martial performance which can be found only in Tainan’s Chiku
district is White Crane array.
One
group of man who followed Koshiga arrived in Tainan in 1661. Escaping
government persecution they brought their families and all valuable things.
Among those treasures were old statues of the deities they worshiped which had
and still have tremendous impact on life and beliefs of local people. Settlers
along with their precious relics changed places several times in 2 centuries to
finally settle down in Shulin, Chiku district and build a temple in 1852. Temple
was in later years rebuild several times and today’s final shape got in the
middle of the 1980’s.
The White Crane Array is evolved from another battle
array specific for south of Taiwan, the Sung Chiang battle array.
At the beginning , White Crane array was held every three
years and that was the reason that this tradition almost disappeared .Government
took steps to preserve this unique tradition and today many young people joined
the White Crane group and performances were held yearly with future plans to
make a tourist attraction of it and trained artisans will perform at least the
parts of the array daily ad offer martial arts classes.
In essence the White Crane Array is a version of Sung
Chiang battle but unlike other traditional Sung Chuang arrays, the performance
of the “White Crane" and the ‘White
Crane boy” precedes the main performance
. White Crane Array includes the boy, the white crane, the 36 martial team
members, and the gongs and drums players , total of 41 people.
The protagonist of the squad is a white crane-shaped
hooded prop. The main body is made of thin bamboo frame and is worn by one
person. Both hands hold wings.
and many people take turns to perform. a white crane boy
who guides the white crane (this is decorated by a mask with a head), which is
the leader of the white crane array, shuttles between them and jumps with the
white crane .
The white crane is made of bamboo skeleton and covered
with white cloth. When it is performed, it is worn by one person, and both
hands hold their wings. The walking and jumping mimics the various postures of the white crane
The white crane boy also, wearing a mask, sometimes leading the way, and
sometimes dancing with the white crane. The performance of the White Cranes is
always in the accompanied with gongs and drums. The soul of the array is the
drummer. The crane dance and formation of martial performance changes by
various drums beats.
After the procession with statute of the god is finished,
White Crane and White Crane Boy t begin to circle and then enter martial arts performances that includes individual
and group weapons exercises, empty hand forms and fighting choreographies.
This is just one of many unique and beautiful things that can be found in Taiwan and just one of many reasons why learning Kung Fu here is so special and basically necessary in order for a practitioner to fully understand traditional Chinese culture unchanged by politics and foreign influences.